Works on top
Railing
The steel wire fasteners are in poor condition, some are missing. The reling lines are slack, making the boat look miserable. Costa Rica has a nice, heavy duty hydraulic crimping tool, which I brought along on my second trip to PG. We started fixing the railing.
Bimini Top
The Bimini Top was removed for fixing,
Display Panels
Status: The displays were removed from the panels (after the lightning struck?) and for newly varnishing the panels. They have three open gaps each.
November 14: Starboard panel completed with depth gauge display, cockpit switches and space for the Raymarine i70 or a similar display. Paint scheme like the hull and the Magayon franchise. (I still had two cans of yellow spraypaint).
Windlass
The windlass was removed because it did not work anymore and for restoring the hatch, which had become weak and bended when stepping on it. The electric motor of the winch is working when connected directly to the battery.
The anchor winch motor has 120W, maximum peak 290W equivalent to 10A or 23A. The circuit breaker is rated with 30A. The circuit is simple, no power relay, just a switch is used to change the polarity for up and down movement. As a result, the remote housing that contains the switch is rather large.
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Priority is to fix the winch as it is, maybe later convert it for use with a more modern remote solution.
The bow compartment where the anchor chain is stored and the windlass is mounted on top is pretty much a mess. This will need some attention later on.
Note to self: When re-doing the electrics the windlass should run from the starter battery, not the house battery, so that the motor alternator provides most of the energy for operating the windlass. Use the windlass with motor running.